Subarmalis reductus

My first attempt at a subarmalis didn't result in quality armor. Though it padded the shoulders well, it didn't close in the front very easily and doesn't look like impressive when worn without the lorica.

So I'm upgrading, using Florentius' design as a model and inspiration.

The goals are, a) close in the front easily, and b) look very, very cool.

First, I built a muslin from scrap fabric. It didn't fit, so I ran the project by my personal fashion consultant (who happens to be my cousin). She marked up the pictures and traced out a new pattern. Then she professionally created a new pattern with shoulder slope, a larger neck hole, and circular arm holes and taught me how to "slash" a pattern to make the center front close where you want it to. It goes to show that I learned nothing at all when I made (i.e. cobbled together with glue) moccasins for my leather-working merit badge all them years ago.

A second muslin was called for--made of duck canvass this time--and it nearly fit, as my fashion designer is genius. It closed right where it was supposed to, right over my pansa verde.

For a week I pondered the shoulder pads. The concept vest looked so cool that I hardly want to ruin it by donning fullback-sized padding. I settled on thin pads that are easily replaced, and brass hooks on the front breast for a decorative clasp to fasten my paenula to.

The waist pteruges are measure 14" (inc. 1" seam allowance). I added 5 pteruges to each shoulder, mostly because I thought they looked cool on "Rome".

I cut out the vest and fastened it with contact cement (neat trick, thanks Florentius!). I had to cut the neck more afterwards, as leather rubs differently than duck canvas.

I cut out the shoulder flaps and sewed the pads. The pads are red wool left over from my paenula and stuffed with lamb's wool (from a former IKEA rug). I attached the flaps with rawhide and the pads slip in between the flap and shoulder. The velco, while anachronistic, is invisible.

I attached the waist and shoulder pteruges, again usinging with contact cement. I put a few loops of rawhide in for the front closure, et voilà!

Later, with some thick linen thread, I added visible seams to the pteruges and the subarmalis. It looks very authentic now.

I'd like to extend gratias maximas to my wife, who reminded me at all times to measure twice. I couldn't have built this without her fine eye and her enduring patience.

PERFECTVS

VICTORIA ROMA OPTIMA

SVBARMALIS

TOTVM: $8.64

REFERENDA:
Legioni XX subarmalis
Legioni IX subarmalis

MATERIAE:
Duck Canvas: 4.19
Buttons: 3.00
Leather string: 0.79
tax: 0.66
Poly fill: gratis

AGE:
Cut out front and back of T. - 6/20/05
Cut front T in half to form sides of vest. - 6/20/05
Sew together. - 6/20/05
Cut out arms. - 6/25/05
Using scraps, put shoulder and side padding in place. - 6/26/05
Sew button and hole for closure. - 7/3/05

LORICA

Loricam emi de Albion Armorers.
CARITAS: $525 ($500 + $25 movanda)

CALIGÆ

TOTVM: $215

REFERENDA:
legionis XX caligae

EMI:
Istas caligas de Albion Armorers.

TVNICA

TOTVM: $25.33

References:
Legio XX Tunica
Legio IX Tunica

Materials:
2 yards Red Wool (57"): $22.73
thread: $2.60

Construction:
Cut out two Ts from wool fabric. - 5/30/05
Sew together. - 6/12/05

SCVTVM

TOTVM: $209.94 (excludes tools)

References:
Legio XX Scutum
Legio IX Scutum

Tools:
C-Clamps x6: $14.58
Tin snips: gratis
Paint brush: $0.68
Lashings x4: $15.13
Ball-peen hammer: $10.00

Supplies:
1/8" Luan Plywood, 48"x96": $16.18
Wood Glue: $13.35
Screen Molding, 158" (13' 2"): gratis
Paint: $47.71-$5.00+$0.37 = $43.08
Linen: $5.68
Canvas: $4.31
Boss: $40.00
Rivets and washers: $87.34

Construction:
Cut the plywood in half, for 2 48"x48" pieces. - 4/18/05
Pencil outline (41"x35") w/ center hole. - 5/7/05
Put the bottom sheet flat on the ground and apply the glue. - 5/8/05
Put the second sheet, stencil side up, on top. - 5/8/05
Fasten to water-heater with lashing. - 5/8/05
Put 1x4 scraps over the edges and clamp down with C-clamps - 5/8/05
Let dry overnight. - 5/8/05
Cut out the shield from outline. - 5/14/05
Soak and curve molding for back-bracing. - 5/14/05
Cut out handgrip from excess plywood. - 5/16/05
Attach molding and handgrip. - 5/16/05
Glue canvas onto outside of shield. - 5/18/05
Glue linen to inside of the shield. - 5/23/05
Paint it red. - 5/28/05
Attach boss with rivets. - 7/2/05
Cut brass shim. - 7/3/05
Attach shim with rivets.
Apply Stencils and paint.


Notes:
Boss was purchased from Dave Atkers at Gunther3698 (at) aol.com (excellent work!)
Rivets, washers, ball-peen hammer are from McMaster-Carr.
Paint is Old-Fashioned Milk Paint.

INCIPIO

Fiat inceptum:
This blog will be devoted entirely to the construction and discussion of my Roman Legionary uniform, the Miles Gregarius. This will be very technical weblog. I plan to leave all the posts up and edit them as progress is made. I am targeting a high level of authenticity. I intend to fabricate everything that I possibly can; to help defray the cost and to feel a sense of ownership.

Cost:
This is very important. I estimate that I can do the project for about US$1000. I may spend more than that, since I have no confederates and nothing short of my own budgetary concerns to worry about. If anyone is interested in joining me in the project, we can probably save costs by buying things together (bulk, shipping, etc.) Here is a break-down of the latest cost estimate that I have, so far:

Scutum (Shield): EST $150
~$115 in materials, at least a weekend of my time.

Tunica (Tunic): EST $30
~$30 in materials, and ~4 hrs of labour

Focale (Scarf): EST $10
~$5 in materials, and ~2 hrs of labour

Subarmalis (Under-armour): EST $20
~$15 in materals, and ~4hrs of labour

Lorica (Armour): EST $350
$350 @ La Wren's Nest
$500 Albion Armorers
$650 @ Lonely Mountain Forge
$550 @ RLQM
If I make it, it'll be ~$250 and A LOT of labour. This piece has me the most worried.

Cassis (Helmet): EST $325
Italic G $275 (Albion)
Gallic G $275 (Albion)
Gallic G $600 (Lonely Mountain) includes padding, strap
Coolus E: $275 (Albion)
Coolus E $200 (SotW)
Coolus G $279 (by-the-sword)
Felt liner and chin strap $50 (Albion)
I could probably make the padding and strap for about $15 and some work. The Deepeeka Italic G and Gallic G, according to Matthew Amt, require too much work to make them servicable. That's too bad, as I rather like the Gallic G.

Pugio (Dagger): EST $100
Knife and Scabbard: $80 (Albion)
Knife and Scabbard: $350(Lonely Mountain)
Knife and Scabbard: $104 (by the sword)
Knife and Scabbard: ~US$300 (Manning Imperial)
Knife and Scabbard: $75 (SotW)

Gladius (Sword): EST $200
Pompeii blade, scabbard, & balric: $820 (Albion)
Pompeii blade, scabbard, & baldric: $800 (Lonely Mountain)
Pompeii blade, scabbard: $148 (by the sword) Deepeeka
Pompeii blade, scabbard: $125 (SotW) Deepeeka
Mainz blade, scabbard, & baldric: $820 (Albion)
Mainz blade, scabbard, & baldric: $1055 (Lonely Mountain)
Mainz blade, scabbard: $117 (by the sword)

Caligae (Sandals): EST $200
$200 (Albion)
$72 (By the Sword)
$59 (By the Sword)
I could probably make them myself for ~$50 and ~8hrs labour. I like the Albion ones the best. The cheapies over at By the Sword look really cheap.

Balteus (Belt): EST $100
Roman Belt, $150 Albion
Roman Belt Components, $3/part Albion, requires multiple parts
Roman Belt, $110 La Wren's Nest
Legionnaire's Belt, $150 La Wren's Nest


References:
If you would like to see pictures of people in uniform, and see some other information on the costume, please check out these sites:
Legio VI
Legio XX
Legio IX

Time Table:
I intend to take about nine months to collect and construct all the gear. The first item to be made is the scutum. Following that will be the tunica. Whenever possible, the item under discussion will be referred to by its Latin name. I do not know which items will follow after that.

Colour:
The first thing I want to establish is the colour theme I will be targeting. Earlier I had discussed perhaps a blue tunica and scutum. The consensus seems to be red, however. This doesn't make blue wrong (as some on the discussion fora I have been reading are inclining to believe), it just means that re-enactors have almost unanimously come to the conclusion that red looks cool. I strongly believe the historical evidence here is flimsy for red-only. However, we have no other colours from the archaeological record to draw from. As my wife says, though, red is the colour of power and war. Red wins the day... for now. Once I get the hang of making a tunica and a scutum, I may attempt a second one another colour theme.

Auxillium:
As it stands right now, I have the support of two friends who promise to stand by, point, laugh, and drink my beer while I work on the project. My wife has generously offered also her sewing skills for the tunica and focale. If there is anyone else out there who would care to join in on the project in some capacity other than peanut-gallery (those posts are full), I'm accepting applications now.