Subarmalis reductus

My first attempt at a subarmalis didn't result in quality armor. Though it padded the shoulders well, it didn't close in the front very easily and doesn't look like impressive when worn without the lorica.

So I'm upgrading, using Florentius' design as a model and inspiration.

The goals are, a) close in the front easily, and b) look very, very cool.

First, I built a muslin from scrap fabric. It didn't fit, so I ran the project by my personal fashion consultant (who happens to be my cousin). She marked up the pictures and traced out a new pattern. Then she professionally created a new pattern with shoulder slope, a larger neck hole, and circular arm holes and taught me how to "slash" a pattern to make the center front close where you want it to. It goes to show that I learned nothing at all when I made (i.e. cobbled together with glue) moccasins for my leather-working merit badge all them years ago.

A second muslin was called for--made of duck canvass this time--and it nearly fit, as my fashion designer is genius. It closed right where it was supposed to, right over my pansa verde.

For a week I pondered the shoulder pads. The concept vest looked so cool that I hardly want to ruin it by donning fullback-sized padding. I settled on thin pads that are easily replaced, and brass hooks on the front breast for a decorative clasp to fasten my paenula to.

The waist pteruges are measure 14" (inc. 1" seam allowance). I added 5 pteruges to each shoulder, mostly because I thought they looked cool on "Rome".

I cut out the vest and fastened it with contact cement (neat trick, thanks Florentius!). I had to cut the neck more afterwards, as leather rubs differently than duck canvas.

I cut out the shoulder flaps and sewed the pads. The pads are red wool left over from my paenula and stuffed with lamb's wool (from a former IKEA rug). I attached the flaps with rawhide and the pads slip in between the flap and shoulder. The velco, while anachronistic, is invisible.

I attached the waist and shoulder pteruges, again usinging with contact cement. I put a few loops of rawhide in for the front closure, et voilà!

Later, with some thick linen thread, I added visible seams to the pteruges and the subarmalis. It looks very authentic now.

I'd like to extend gratias maximas to my wife, who reminded me at all times to measure twice. I couldn't have built this without her fine eye and her enduring patience.